Sunday, January 15, 2012

History as our guide

While I’ve never been particularly history centric, Ukraine’s colorful past actually does help explain an otherwise seemingly unusual culture….

The country has been flip flopped among rulers – the peak being in 1919 when it changed hands 5 times in one year!  It has been characterized as being a land ‘easy to conquer, but impossible to rule’…

From 1919 - Let’s all share: In roll the Bolsheviks in 1919, and their tact is nationalism and ‘war communism’.  Said another way, release your belongings to the Red Army, turn in what you have and what you make…come on people, we are all just one big happy, sharing family.

To today – If you got it, flaunt it:  Fur, Bentleys, trophy houses & wives.  The locals definitely appear to like to show off what they have – which, if I had to hand over my giant wall clock, down comforters and silly numbers of jeans & shoes, I might too.
(fur anytime, anywhere....)
 (Pleather pants & stilletos at the mall food court?  Why not?!)


From 1930s – On board or out: Under Stalin’s rule, there was absolutely no tolerance for opposition.  A new ‘regime of terror’ rid the country of non-compliance the good old fashioned way – by killing off anyone who might have ideas on their own & influence.  Be gone scientists, church leaders, writers, historians, and political leaders.  Random accusations would result in disappearances and executions.  As a result, people essentially got a quick & effective lesson in not standing out.

To today – Blank faces: As an American – and Midwesterner at that - it is somewhat shocking that people don’t chat in line at the grocery store, smile at our ‘precocious’ kids or bring new neighbors brownies….stoic blank faces are the norm.  Apparently if you do smile at strangers, they attribute it to playing with a few cards short of a deck.  So I like to walk around with a huge smile just to have a little fun!  
(the former-Prime minister - she has a real reason to be glum......is now in prison....but her look is pretty typical)


From 1950s – Cookie-cutter concrete: During WWII, Ukraine was pummeled – partially at its own hands (Stalin destroyed factories, flooded mines to leave less assets to the incoming Nazis).  Afterwards, the country whipped up concrete, cookie-cutter buildings – ugly for sure, but fast to build and equally ugly in the spirit of sharing and all…..

To today – Expressive personality:  House hunting & visiting a friend’s home for the first time are fantastic here - you never know what you will find.  Houses now appear to be canvases to express personality and showcase whimsy.  We toured one that took a leopard / jungle theme so far you really felt like you were at the zoo, another with a floor to ceiling mural of Marilyn Monroe’s face… 

Dang - they are covering most of it - but this flat has sleek marble tiles, huge angular windows and funky Mayan looking pillars.....
...and a Scandinavian style open kitchen....
funky bathrooms..


From 1990s – Uncertain supply: In 1991, when the USSR collapsed, Ukraine broke free from Russia & was declared independent.  Oh happy day – except for….the calamity that was privatization happening via shady deals, mafia shootings and corruption.  During this time, inflation rocketed to over 10,000%, currency became almost meaningless and stores were empty or closed.  Winter was the worst when heat & electricity were rationed and Russia threatened to cut off its gas supply completely when Ukraine couldn’t pay the bills.

To today – Crank up the heat:  I’ve never been so hot in such a cold place!  While the weather outside is like Chicago & people are all bundled up in winter boots & fur; go into any store, car or metro train and it’s like Arizona in June.  We are constantly in a ‘battle of the radiators’ with our cleaning lady (she puts up, we put down) and hot damn, I have yet to determine the proper was to dress for such severe temperature swings.


So here's to appreciating the past & smiling at a stranger today! 

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