On the road to becoming a local

About two months into driving here, I feel I've passed some real milestones on the path to becoming a Ukrainian driver.....

Gassing up: Intentionally having Logan take the car when the tank was down to 1/4 was getting a little silly obvious.....it was time to brave the gas station.  

Phew - hard work.....I sat in the car while the guys filled the gas & the wiper fluid (it took 3 of them to figure out how to pop the hood on the Volvo - not very common here)

But I guess I have a ways to go before I'm truly native......as I passed up the opportunity to have a cocktail or shot while I paid for my gas..

Yes!  This is a full bar IN THE GAS STATION mini market.  On a busy road with nothing really nearby to walk from.  So come visit - I'll take you to the gas station for a drink (you come, I'll even be the DD)!

Picking up hitchhikers: I had read it is common for people to flag down random cars to hitchhike or negotiate to pay for a ride.  AND you often see people with their thumbs out on the side of the road.....But I still thought they must be hailing cabs or flagging down buses.  Hitchhiking is for hippies going cross-country, right?!

Then when one put his thumb out right outside my gate & then waved his arms clearly mad at me when I started to pull away, I turned back & picked up my first ever hitchhiker.....

If you are like my mom, your first reaction might be WTF?!? (OK, Mary did NOT use that kind of mental language I am sure - but it adds to the story).  But, as you can see from the picture, my hitchhiker was a kid.  Through our patched together Russian-English, I learned he is 11, is named Mikhail & was going to the school at the bottom of our hill.

I felt like I was really fitting in with the locals, until the next day when the kids & I saw Mikhail walking again.  Despite their pleas for me not to, I rolled down the window & offered him a ride.  He looked at me like I was totally crazy and kept going - proving I am just an over-friendly American after all.

Hope you have a friendly encounter today.....even if it is with a strange foreigner.  

Istanbul vs. Kyiv

So now that we spent the first quarter or so here getting situated, we've decided it is high time to start exploring some of our neighbors....and of course comparing notes.  


We headed to Istanbul for the weekend - here's how it stacks up vs. Kyiv:


Food: Istanbul takes the prize with fresh, grilled everything.  Even the cheap kabab places were pretty good.   

All 3 kids ate a lot - a rare, high-honor....

Win = Istanbul




Manicured public areas: While Kyiv has several big, nice parks, it often looks like no one remembered to build maintenance into the budget.  Meanwhile, it was refreshing to see well-kept grass.....

This was an outdoor 'fitness area' outside of our hotel.....the kids loved to play on it.  Only saw 1 person who legitimately appeared to seek fitness.  That said, with the exertion on these machines, it would require like 14 hours to = 1 brownie.....

Win = Istanbul




Fancy airports: Istanbul's airport was fancy.  High end shops...

A nice looking internet cafe..

And even those newfangled things.....jet ways!

OK, we do have a few of them in Kyiv.  But we are at over a 75% 'exit via ladder rate' - making it a cheap thrill each time we get to go on a plane without braving the elements.


While it might seem to CLEARLY put the win to Istanbul, Kyiv is building a new airport terminal  (along with a zillion other things) for the upcoming Euro World Cup.....so the vote remains TBD.




Environmental friendliness: I guess it is not too surprising that people living on ~$300/month are not too worried about the long term, environmental effects of their empty shampoo bottle......but it was refreshing to see environmental efforts in action at the Istanbul airport ...

Although I am still wondering how a double-flush counts as helpful....

Win = Istanbul




Old Buildings: Istanbul also has some really cool old places.....the Ayasofya is a crazy big mosque built in the 500s.....mind boggling to figure out how they built a 13 story dome in those days.  The kids liked running around in here - surprising lack of rules or guards glaring at unruly kids.

The cisterns are these humongous, underground water reserves that were built in the 4th century to provide water to the city.  I tried to impress the kids with what a crazy architectural and engineering feat this was.  They enjoyed feeding the fish....

But, as you've already seen, Kyiv has plenty of cool, old stuff too.  So I call it a draw.




Outfits: Istanbul appeared to be a dynamic population....lot's of different ethnicities and looks.  Of course, many conservative in belief and dress....

Kyiv, on the other hand, is a bit more expressive with its outfits......

If for nothing else than the entertainment value, I vote Kyiv the clear winner!




Modern Medical Equipment: Our fun weekend of easy-going touring was given a grand finale of an ambulance ride to the ER after Zoe took a leap from her bed headfirst into a glass topped coffee table.


I've never been in an ambulance......but this one seemed pretty nice.....
(Zoe's only concern was that this doctor would not have a prize box - like her dentist in Chicago!)

Who knows if it was a necessary precaution or a way to make a little extra revenue off a tourist....but Zoe & Purple Baby got a CT scan.  

The machine looked legit to me & even better, both girls were given a good bill of health.


The stitching process took what seemed like forever & I started to wonder about things when I was basically in charge of laying on Zoe to keep her still.  


But the work looked good & Zoe seemed fine - especially after I offered to buy her (and NOT the boys) a toy at the airport to make up for aforementioned lack of a 'prize box'.

(She insisted we accessorize while waiting for her prescriptions)


So, I'd give Istanbul's modern medical facilities a thumbs up - and hope to not have a reason to find out about the comparable conditions in Kyiv!




So here's to new territories & ambulance free adventures!

Varsity Shopping

I've always considered myself an enthusiastic & even an exceptional shopper.....maybe due to blood (dad managed Walgreen's, 1 grandfather a J.C. Penney, the other a pharmacy), maybe just due to sheer experience.  Regardless of the why, these retail skills have seriously been put to the test in Kyiv.


Lace up, shopping here is a marathon........


You better shop around: While there are a ton of 'ginormous' hyper markets, that truly do sell a surprising range of products under the same roof, our typical shopping list includes several 'must have' products that seem to only be available at one store.  Only problem is - not at the same one store.....


Cans of cashews were not something I thought I needed to import or hoard....

...but after 2 months, I'd written them off until one fateful day at my favorite wine store - Good Wine...

In addition to it's elaborate nut section, obviously it has a huge range of wines.....

After discovering this store, we went from importing 12 bottles of wine / trip (2L allowed / person - we, of course, included the kids in our calculations), to shifting all of that suitcase weight & space to other essentials - baking products and snacks - oh happy day!


While it was a given that chocolate chips needed to be imported via suitcase, I panicked when it appeared that our serious consumption of cinnamon toast was in jeopardy.....until a trip to Metro - a Costco like store....

Given the only bottle available is GIANT, we no longer are in risk of a shortage (imported US bottle shown for scale).....

But who would ever guess this is the only store selling it & the only size of cinnamon seen in the country!?




And, while I knew that Europe was not as big on diet, low-cal, low-fat, I was not prepared to live a happy life without our breakfast staple - fat-free Greek Yogurt.....locating this gem required the help of a Russian speaking Swedish friend.....

and a trip to Silpo - what appears to be a mid-level chain...

I really should be awarded some sort of finders fee now given the number of people I have directed to Silpo.  I suspect the 0% fat craving parade of ex-pats is now skewing their inventory management.




And while I get that fresh cranberries are not 'essential' year round, Thanksgiving would not be the same without them (Xavier alone requires about a bag's worth per sitting)......

...thanks to Mega Market (a 2 story supermarket + drug store type place) we did not have to do withough....

This has proven to be my favorite store among them...has a nice selection and probably about Dominick's / Safeway quality...but even within this one you can't 'one stop shop'.......

The top floor houses all of the home & personal care stuff (think TP & shampoo), the ground floor all of the groceries.....if you want to buy some of both, you are expected to make separate purchases & store the items previously procured in the handy lockers provided.....

..simple?  No!  But if it were, we would not get the pleasure of considering ourselves 'varsity shoppers'.




So Happy Tuesday & here's to shopping!

  

History as our guide

While I’ve never been particularly history centric, Ukraine’s colorful past actually does help explain an otherwise seemingly unusual culture….

The country has been flip flopped among rulers – the peak being in 1919 when it changed hands 5 times in one year!  It has been characterized as being a land ‘easy to conquer, but impossible to rule’…

From 1919 - Let’s all share: In roll the Bolsheviks in 1919, and their tact is nationalism and ‘war communism’.  Said another way, release your belongings to the Red Army, turn in what you have and what you make…come on people, we are all just one big happy, sharing family.

To today – If you got it, flaunt it:  Fur, Bentleys, trophy houses & wives.  The locals definitely appear to like to show off what they have – which, if I had to hand over my giant wall clock, down comforters and silly numbers of jeans & shoes, I might too.

(fur anytime, anywhere....)

 (Pleather pants & stilletos at the mall food court?  Why not?!)

From 1930s – On board or out: Under Stalin’s rule, there was absolutely no tolerance for opposition.  A new ‘regime of terror’ rid the country of non-compliance the good old fashioned way – by killing off anyone who might have ideas on their own & influence.  Be gone scientists, church leaders, writers, historians, and political leaders.  Random accusations would result in disappearances and executions.  As a result, people essentially got a quick & effective lesson in not standing out.

To today – Blank faces: As an American – and Midwesterner at that - it is somewhat shocking that people don’t chat in line at the grocery store, smile at our ‘precocious’ kids or bring new neighbors brownies….stoic blank faces are the norm.  Apparently if you do smile at strangers, they attribute it to playing with a few cards short of a deck.  So I like to walk around with a huge smile just to have a little fun!  

(the former-Prime minister - she has a real reason to be glum......is now in prison....but her look is pretty typical)

From 1950s – Cookie-cutter concrete: During WWII, Ukraine was pummeled – partially at its own hands (Stalin destroyed factories, flooded mines to leave less assets to the incoming Nazis).  Afterwards, the country whipped up concrete, cookie-cutter buildings – ugly for sure, but fast to build and equally ugly in the spirit of sharing and all…..

To today – Expressive personality:  House hunting & visiting a friend’s home for the first time are fantastic here - you never know what you will find.  Houses now appear to be canvases to express personality and showcase whimsy.  We toured one that took a leopard / jungle theme so far you really felt like you were at the zoo, another with a floor to ceiling mural of Marilyn Monroe’s face… 

Dang - they are covering most of it - but this flat has sleek marble tiles, huge angular windows and funky Mayan looking pillars.....

...and a Scandinavian style open kitchen....

funky bathrooms..

From 1990s – Uncertain supply: In 1991, when the USSR collapsed, Ukraine broke free from Russia & was declared independent.  Oh happy day – except for….the calamity that was privatization happening via shady deals, mafia shootings and corruption.  During this time, inflation rocketed to over 10,000%, currency became almost meaningless and stores were empty or closed.  Winter was the worst when heat & electricity were rationed and Russia threatened to cut off its gas supply completely when Ukraine couldn’t pay the bills.

To today – Crank up the heat:  I’ve never been so hot in such a cold place!  While the weather outside is like Chicago & people are all bundled up in winter boots & fur; go into any store, car or metro train and it’s like Arizona in June.  We are constantly in a ‘battle of the radiators’ with our cleaning lady (she puts up, we put down) and hot damn, I have yet to determine the proper was to dress for such severe temperature swings.

So here's to appreciating the past & smiling at a stranger today! 

A taste of home

Happy New Year!  Hope you had a fun holiday season.  We had a fantastic visit home - the best part was of course spending time with friends & family.  But you probably have your own backlog of family pictures to look at - so let's explore another angle....  


While we typically start off January with vows of "being healthier", this year we seriously need it.  3 weeks of indulging in any / every 'American favorite', 'must have' or just 'looks delish'.......


We started our repatriation diet with the Mexican inspired Chipotle (no Mexican food in Kyiv); and I nearly got teary at the presence of fountain diet soda.....proceeded to push the boundaries on unlimited refills.





We did not waste any time before reuniting with another of our favorites - Costco....
We started with the pizza.  And, yes, there are plenty of pizza joints in town here.  But with my poor language skills often resulting in botched orders and their use of more 'interesting cheeses' (e.g. blue & feta), the kids were thrilled with an old standby....



We also bought & consumed silly amounts of berries.  Given its status as the 'breadbasket of Europe', Ukraine has plenty of fresh produce....but has apparently not yet mastered international distribution.  Abundance in season, very little beyond that.  So if you are in the mood for a root vegetable, come on by! 





We also hit some places where it was just nice to be able to explain what we wanted without breaking into mime mode...



And my love was reignited for some things I had totally started to take for granted....ah the joys of not picking little bits out of the sink........


...and being able to read signs! 



I think we were all a little sad to be leaving - so we sought to extend the joys of home by stuffing our suitcases!  I am happy to report all 10 bags made it, customs barely gave us a second glance and our cellar is now well stocked....(clearly the purchases were made in advance of our 'new healthy regime'!)

Here's to a definitely happy & maybe healthy 2012 - full of American goodness!